Around the World... One Journey at a Time. Around the World... One Journey at a Time.






Namibia: Windhoek

by Kathy 6. July 2014 22:12

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Etosha National Park, Day 1 >>

 

Windhoek: Arrival and Katatura Bike Tour

 

Our flight to Namibia took almost 40 hours, from San Francisco to the capital city of Windhoek, with layover stops in London and Johannesburg, South Africa.

Genevieve and Sebastian on the overnight flight to London:

(The pillow pets in their laps came in handy for naps on the planes and in airports.)

In London’s airport, we enjoyed a pick-me-up of cappuccinos and hot chocolate:

Descending into the smog around the Johannesburg airport:

Arrival in Windhoek, Namibia:

Waiting for us at the airport was Isak, who would be driving us to our inn and later delivering our rental vehicle :

Isak helped us find a cheap mobile phone before depositing us at our B&B, Londiningi. Here is Ben at the entrance:

The inn was in a residential area and, like most homes on this street, had an electric fence on top of the surrounding wall—not because this was in a “bad” neighborhood, but to provide a form of protection “just in case.”

Apartheid (racial segregation) has only been abolished in Namibia since 1991, and the division between “haves” and “have nots” was still pretty extreme. We would see this division on our bike tour the next day, and on our drive throughout the country over the next three weeks. 

During our 2 nights in Windhoek, Londiningi provided the perfect place to rest and to explore a bit of the city. The inn is owned by a wonderful husband and wife team—Alexander from Namibia and Nathalie from France—who continue to work hard to create comfortable rooms and fantastic meals for their guests.

The inn grounds:

 

There was even a swimming pool, although June is winter in Namibia--too cold to take a dip:

Ben and I shared adjoining rooms with the kids. Here is the entrance to our room:

Comfy bed:

Spacious bathroom:

Dinner that night provided us with our first taste of oryx steak (a type of antelope), very tasty! Eating animals to which we are not accustomed raised questions about our food choices and beliefs, and why we eat certain animals and not others. There were no easy answers.

Genevieve and Sebastian at dinner:

The next morning, Isak drove us to the Katutura area of Windhoek for a bicycle tour. The name “Katutura” means “the place where we do not want to live.” It was named by the black residents who were forced to move there by white Namibians and South African occupiers who imposed the law of segregation beginning in the late 1950’s. Although Namibia gained independence from South Africa in 1990, the city is still divided racially. The economy is still controlled for the most part by white people, and we learned that there are places downtown where even today black people are not allowed to use the bathroom. On the flip side, and perhaps for good reason, white people are generally not welcome in Katutura.

A Katutura resident named Anna Mafwila recently opened a business offering visitors a bicycle tour of the Katutura area in order to promote understanding, diffuse fears, and bridge the gap between cultures.

Anna, with Genevieve and Sebastian:

Anna was very forthright, welcoming, and open when we met her. We were disappointed to learn that she would not be our guide that day; instead, we would have Erik, who was born in Finland and later moved to the Katutura area in 1991.

Eric:

While Erik was very knowledgeable, he was fairly reserved and not as enthusiastic as Anna.

The bikes were all adult-sized, but Sebastian managed fine. Here he is testing out his bike before we headed off:

To reach the central Katutura township, we first had to pedal down a long dirt road from the starting point.

 

Our 4 ½ mile route took us through residential and business areas, including local markets. Eric stopped often to point out interesting features, talk about the history of a place, and allow us to take photos.

The first stop was in the Greenwell Matongo area of Katutura, which had a community water spigot:

Many of the nearby homes were built of metal sheets and lacked running water. Eric explained that after the country’s 1990 independence from South Africa, people flocked to Windhoek to live, leading to an abundance of makeshift housing. Over 2/3 of the people in Windhoek live in Katutura. The unemployment rate is about 52%, and the average monthly income is only around $75 U.S. (800 Namibian Dollars).

Another home:

Prior to 1990, under South African apartheid control, there were no schools for black people in Namibia; after 1990, schools were available, but parents had to pay for tuition, books, uniforms, and other fees. The high unemployment and low income rates made (and still make) it extremely difficult for families to pay for their children’s education, which creates a continuing cycle of unemployment and poverty. In 2013, for the first time, the government made primary school free; so at least younger children now can receive an education. Upper grades, however, still cost money.

High unemployment has led many people to start their own businesses, such as this barbershop:

Our next stop was on the corner of Eveline Street, which Eric described as “the most popular street” where something was always happening, especially at night. The street had a lot of “shabeens” (bars or small pubs), such as this one below:

We also saw a number of make-shift car washes, taxi cab waiting areas, and fruit vendors.

Continuing onward, we stopped to take in a sweeping view of homes—a mix of corrugated metal, brick, and some stucco:

Across the street:

There was a new apartment building under construction, although the stairs did not look too sturdy yet with their lack of support:

Sebastian, in front of a row of small businesses:

We then pedaled into the older area of Katutura, where the houses were generally make of brick because corrugated metal homes were not allowed before the 1990 independence.

 

 

We got off our bikes to stroll through the Soweto Market, established in the mid-1990’s:

The businesses here were a mix of small kitchens, tailors, barbers and other places, with video games and pool tables in the middle.

A bridal shop:

As we walked by some girls eating, they called out for me to take their photo:

I asked if we could do a group photo, and they said, “Yes, yes!”

When I peeked into a laundry room, this woman paused from her work and let me snap a photo:

Eric walked on and stayed his distance during my interactions with the people in the market; it could have been that he was giving us space to have our own personal exchanges, but the vibe that we got was that he was a bit embarrassed about leading us around.

At an outdoor stall, we stopped to enjoy the local “fat cake”—balls of fried dough with a touch of sweetness:

Sebastian noted that the cakes “looked like weird brown apples but turned out to be bread.”

Genevieve, ready to leave the market:

The homes in the next section of Katutura were more solidly built than the corrugated metal houses on the outskirts:

 

 

 

 

Some of the stucco walls of the houses had bullet holes left over from the fighting that occurred prior to the 1990 independence:

 

 

Eric explained that the bullet holes evidence the bloody history of the country. The South African occupiers did not allow more than 20 people to congregate at a time. The police would often start spraying bullets with no warning.

The independence gained in 1990 marked the end of the South African occupation of Namibia, and also the Cuban occupation of Angola (the country to the north). Eric said that the during the occupation, South Africa was faced with resistance from Namibians who wanted freedom, as well as pressure from the Cuban government who kept pushing back South African forces from the border, and pressure from the South African people who did not want to continue fighting a war.

Eric pointed out the local medical clinic, which once contained a holding cell in which police would keep people for monitoring:

 

Continuing our ride:

 

A local preschool / daycare:

Our next stop was the Oshetu Market, which holds the biggest meat market in Katutura:

 

The market was once a beer hall, segregated by gender. Now, 7 or 8 cows are killed each morning and sold here. The entrance had a small row of fresh cows heads:

One whole side was devoted to grills, where men would sell sizzling strips of beef. As we walked into the market, a griller named Martin asked me to take his photo:

We ventured deeper into the market and found some lovely shoes made with springbok fur:

There was an abundance of dried food, including these dried greens and flat fish:

Dried anchovies:

Dried mopane worms (which Eric said needed to be cooked before eating):

One woman was selling large cups of the Namibian drink called oshikundu, made from millet flour, sorghum flour, and sugar, all mixed together and fermented for a day. Eric purchased a cup for us for less than twenty U.S. cents. We watched as the seller dipped a communal cup into the large open bucket of drink.

Before offering us the cup, Eric took a healthy chug-a-lug:

Ben was next:

Sebastian also took a turn:

 

Believe me, lots of thoughts were swirling through my mind regarding sanitation (Do they ever wash that cup?), germs (We’re exchanging saliva here!), and illness (That open bucket probably contains fly droppings as well as bacteria that we haven’t encountered before). But I was also thinking of the importance of stretching one’s comfort zone, trying new things, and participating in the local culture. Sebastian handed the cup to me, and I took modest sip. The drink was sweet. It was not yummy enough for me to want to tip the cup back a second time. However, I had tried it. Enough said.

We finished our loop through the market back at the meat tables:

The last tasting was some of the freshly cooked beef from one of the grills. You take your meat and dip it into the salt and spices spread out into a cardboard box—yum!

The meat was very tender and flavorful!

Our guide Eric was not very talkative (either to us or the vendors) throughout the market experience. Again, we got the sense that he was either embarrassed to be leading us around, or he just did not want to be doing this.

After leaving the market, we continued onward to our last stop—the King’s Daughter’s Bicycle Shop:

 

The shop was created to help with the unemployment in the area; workers repair and sell broken bicycles, which are used locally for transportation not sport. A man named Napan was in the process of putting a wheel on a bike:

I am sure that there was more that we could have learned about the shop, but Eric was a man of few words here. After taking some photos, and then standing around awkwardly, we said our goodbyes and returned to our own bikes.

On the road again:

As we cycled through the last stretch of busy street, some kids were getting out of school, and they would run beside us wanting a wave or a high five, which we were happy to give. Eric, however, yelled at the kids and tried to scare them away.

A school in the distance:

 

Despite the lack of ease that we sensed from our guide, we really enjoyed our ride through Katutura, and we felt that we had received a good introduction to the area.

Isak picked us up from the tour in the vehicle that we would be driving throughout Namibia, starting tomorrow—a 4x4 pickup truck, with double rooftop tents:

The back contained a minifridge, sleeping bags, cooking utensils, a propane tank, and other essentials that we would need while camping. Isak took a moment to show us how to pop out the tents on top and to buckle everything back down.

On the way out of Katutura, Isak drove us by his home in the Greenwell area—he sleeps in the dark orange home below:

His wife and children live in another town north of Windhoek. He is on the road a lot, picking up and delivering rental vehicles, and he stops by to see them whenever he can. He said that his dream is to start a business packaging meat.

Back at our hotel, Isak handed the keys over to Ben:

We would be leaving Windhoek early tomorrow morning, driving north to Etosha National Park. The purple line below shows our route over the next 3 weeks.

Let the adventure continue!

Back to Namibia Index Page

Etosha National Park, Day 1 >>

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Comments (3) -

8/6/2014 2:24:59 PM #

Jan-André Ohlert

Hey Kathy,

Again a lovely story about you traveling the World.  How are you?. I love your Photostories espacally when they are so much in Detail like this one. I noticed the Kids have grown bigger in the many Years of you traveling the World. How are they now, and in which Grade in school are both.

Jan-André Ohlert Germany | Reply

8/9/2014 5:46:07 PM #

Kathy

Hi Jan-André,
Thank you for continuing to follow our journeys. (I am far behind on posting stories!) Yes, the kids continue to grow, and Genevieve is as tall as I am now. They are both doing great. School starts this month--Genevieve will be in the 10th grade, and Sebastian the 7th.
Thanks again for your continued interest!
Kathy

Kathy United States | Reply

8/15/2014 4:36:32 PM #

Jan-Andre' Ohlert

Hey Kathy,
I Love your Photostories so much, I look everyday on this Website if you post a new Photostorie. How old are Genevieve and Sebastian. Where do you have the Name Genevieve from. I am finished with School , and will start my 3 Year training ( german: Ausbildung) on 27 of this month in a office. What are Genievievs and Sebastians Dream Jop, I mean what they wonna do after school?.

Jan-Andre'

Jan-Andre' Ohlert Germany | Reply

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Map of Our Journeys

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Our travel map



Places We’ve Been, w/Quick Links

Bhutan
   Bumthang Valley
   Gom Kora
   Kanglung
   Mongar
   Paro Valley
   Punakha Dzong
   Sangdrup Jongkhar
   Thimphu
   Tongsa
   Wangdi Phrodrang

Bolivia
   Caranavi
   Guanay
   Janko Marca
   La Paz
   Laguna Colorada
   Laguna Verde
   Llica
   Potosí
   Queteña
   Rurrenabaque
   Sajama
   Salar de Coipasa
   Salar de Uyuni
   San Pablo
   Santa Rosa
   Sorata
   Sud Lipez
   Tupiza
   World’s Most Dangerous Road

Canada
   Banff National Park
   Battle Hill Nat'l Hist. Site
   Boya Lake Prov. Park, BC
   Burns Lake Bike Park
   Canyon Sainte-Anne
   Chetwynd
   Dawson Creek
   Eastern Townships
   Fort Nelson
   Isle-aux-Coudres
   Jasper National Park
   Kluane Lake, YK
   'Ksan Historical Village
   Lake Louise
   Liard Hot Springs
   Montreal
   Niagara Falls
   Ottawa
   Quebec City
   Quesnel
   Thousand Islands
   Toronto
   Vancouver
   Vancouver Island
   Victoria
   Watson Lake
   Whistler
   Whitehorse

China
   Beijing
   Datong
   Forbidden City
   Great Wall at Mutianyu
   Hong Kong
   HuaShan
   Lijiang
   Summer Palace
   Terracotta Warriors
   Tiananmen Square
   Xi’an
   Yangshuo
   Yungang Caves

Costa Rica
   Arenal Volcano
   Finca Corsicana
   Hanging Bridges
   Manuel Antonio
   Poas Volcano
   Proyecto Asis
   Quepos
   Sarchi
   Sky Trek Zip Lining
   Venado Caves
   Zarcero

France
   Paris

Ecuador
   Amazon Rainforest
   Chaquiñan Bicycle Trail
   La Mitad del Mundo
   Napo Wildlife Center
   Papallacta Hot Springs
   Proyecto DCR
   Quito
   Yasuní National Park

India
   Bagdogra
   Darjeeling
   Delhi
   Gawahati
   Jaigaon
   Kalimpong

Mexico
   Baja California
   Crucecita
   Frida Kahlo Museum
   Hierve el Agua
   Huatulco
   Marietas Islands
   Mazunte
   Mexico City
   Monte Alban
   Oaxaca City
   Patzcuaro
   Puerto Angel
   Puerto Escondido
   Puerto Vallarta
   San Agustin
   San Martin Tilcajete
   Santa Fe de la Laguna
   Santa María el Tule
   Sayulita
   Studio of Jacobo Angeles
   Teotihuacán
   Teotitlán del Valle
   TzinTzunTzan
   Yagul
   Yelapa

Namibia
   Caprivi
   Dead Vlei
   Elondo Village
   Etosha Nat'l Park
   Hippo Pools Camp
   Hoba Meteorite
   Katutura
   Khowarib Camp
   Moose McGregor's Bakery
   Mowani Camp
   Ngepi Camp
   Nkasa Lupala
   n'Kwzi Camp
   River Dance Lodge
   Seisfontein
   Seisriem Camp
   Sossusvlie
   Swakopmund
   Treesleeper Camp
   Twyfeltein
   Windhoek

Peru
   Balsas
   Barranca
   Cajabamba
   Cajamarca
   Caraz
   Cañón del Pato
   Celendín
   Cerro de Pasco
   Chachapoyas
   Cusco
   Huamachuco
   Huánico
   Huaraz
   La Oroya
   Leymebamba
   Llanganuco
   Lima
   Machu Picchu
   Moyobamba
   Nuevo Jaén
   Pallasca
   Pampas
   Tápuc
   Tarapoto
   Tarma
   Tingo Maria
   Tocache
   Yungay Memorial

Portugal
   Burgau
   Coimbra
   Evora
   Lisbon
   Marvao
   Nazare
   Obidos
   Portimao
   Sintra
   Sitio

South Africa
   Johannesburg

Spain
   Barcelona
   Bilbao
   Hondarribia
   Madrid
   Montserrat
   Nerja
   Rock of Gibraltar
   Ronda
   Santillana del Mar
   Tolosa
   Zaragoza

United States National Parks
   Arches National Park, UT
   Badlands National Park, SD
   Bandelier National Monument, NM
   Bryce Canyon National Park, UT
   Cahokia Mounds (UNESCO site), IL
   Carlsbad Caverns National Park, NM
   Canyon de Chelly Nat'l Monument, AZ
   Cape Hatteras National Shoreline, NC
   Capitol Reef National Park, UT
   Civil Rights Memorial, AL
   Death Valley National Park, CA
   Denali National Park, AK
   Devil’s Tower National Monument, WY
   El Morro National Monument, NM
   Ford’s Theater in Washington, D.C.
   Glacier National Park, MT
   Grand Canyon National Park, AZ
   Grand Tetons National Park, WY
   Great Basin National Park, NV
   Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, HI
   Joshua Tree National Park, CA
   Kaloko-Honokohau Nat'l Hist. Park, HI
   Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks, NM
   King's Canyon National Park, CA
   Martin Luther King Jr. Nat'l Hist. Site, GA
   Mesa Verde National Park, CO
   Montezuma's Castle Nat'l Monument, AZ
   Monticello, VA
   Mount Rushmore National Memorial, SD
   Mt. Rainier National Park, WA
   Olympic National Park, WA
   Petrified Wood National Park, AZ
   Pinnacles National Monument, CA
   Pu'uhonua o Honaunau Nat'l Hist Pk, HI
   Pu'ukohola Heiau Nat'l Historic Site, HI
   San Antonio Missions Nat'l Hist. Park, TX
   Tuzigoot National Monument, AZ
   Walnut Canyon National Monument, AZ
   Washington Monument
   White Sands National Monument, NM
   Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, AK
   Wright Brothers National Memorial in NC
   Yellowstone National Park, WY
   Yosemite National Park, CA

United States, Cities and Places
   The Alamo, TX
   Alaska Wildlife Conservation Cntr.
   Alpine Loop in CO
   Anchorage, AK
   Antares Junction, AZ
   Arctic Circle, AK
   Barrel Oak Winery in VA
   Biloxi, MS
   Bottle Tree Farm in CA
   Calico Ghost Town, CA
   Canfield Mountain Trail System, ID
   Cape St. Vincent, NY
   Carson City, NV
   Carter Caves State Park in KY
   Chappie-Shasta OHV Area, CA
   Child's Glacier, AK
   Circle B Chuckwagon Show in SD
   City Museum in MO
   Cody, WY
   Corn Palace in SD
   Crazy Horse Memorial in SD
   Custer State Park, SD
   Dalton Highway, AK
   Dinosaur Tracks in AZ
   Discovery Place in Charlotte, NC
   Dry Falls (Sun Lakes-Dry Falls), WA
   Fairbanks, AK
   Front Royal, VA
   Gallup, NM
   Goffs, CA
   Grand Canyon Caves, AZ
   Grand Canyon Skywalk, AZ
   Grave Digger Monster Truck in NC
   Great Salt Lake, UT
   Hackberry General Store in AZ
   Hannibal, MO
   Hatteras Island, NC
   Hawaii (Big Island)
   Hickison Petroglyphs, NV
   Holbrook, AZ
   Hole in the Rock, UT
   Homer, AK
   Honey Island Swamp Tour in LA
   Hoover Dam, NV
   Hyder, AK
   Jim Gray’s Petrified Wood Co. in AZ
   John’s Peak OHV Area, OR
   Kailua-Kona, HI
   Keepers of the Wild Nature Park in AZ
   Kennecott, AK
   Kennecott Copper Mine in UT
   Kingman, AZ
   Lake Havasu, AZ
   Lake Tahoe, NV
   Las Vegas, NV (winter 2010)
   Little Brown Church in IA
   London Bridge in AZ
   Loneliest Road in America, Hwy. 50, NV
   Los Angeles, CA
   Lost Colony Show on Roanoke Isl., NC
   Lowe’s Speedway in NC
   Mardi Gras World in LA
   Mark Twain Museum in MO
   Meteor Crater, AZ
   Million Dollar Highway, CO
   Minnesota Zoo
   Mitchell, SD
   Moab, UT
   Moab, UT (dirt biking)
   Montgomery, AL
   Montpelier, ID
   Navajo Nation, AZ
   Needles, CA
   Nevada Beach, NV
   Newberry Springs, CA
   New River Gorge, WV
   New Orleans, LA
   Niagara Falls 
   North Pole, AK
   Oatman, AZ
   Old Faithful Geyser in WY
   Omak Stampede, WA
   Painted Desert, AZ
   Park City, UT (summer)
   Plymouth, NC
   Portage Valley, AK
   Portland, OR
   Prospect OHV Trail System, OR
   Resaca, GA
   Riverside State Park, WA
   Rock City in TN
   Rosa Parks Library and Museum in AL
   Roswell, NM
   Russian River, AK
   Salt Lake City, UT
   San Antonio, TX
   San Diego, CA
   San Juan Islands, WA
   San Francisco, CA
   Santa Catalina Island, CA
   Seattle, WA
   Sedona, AZ
   Shoe Tree in CA
   Shoe Tree in NV
   Silverton, CO
   Sonora, TX
   St. Louis, MO
   St. Paul, MN
   Talkeetna, AK
   Telluride, CO
   Route 66
   Twin Knobs Recreation Area in KY
   Virginia Beach, VA
   Washington D.C.
   Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park in IL
   Williamsburg, VA
   Winom Frazier OHV Area, OR
   Winslow, AZ
   Zion National Park, UT

Planning Our Adventures

For us, each journey begins with the initial heart pangs to venture to a certain part of the world. Then the ideas start coming together . . . ahh, the possibilities . . . and the dream evolves gradually into an actual plan. But, oh, the joy of the dream!  Click here to learn more about how we plan and prepare for our journeys.

Where Are We Now?

Click here to discover where we are now, as well as our uncoming travel plans.


Words for the Heart

“. . . and then the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.”

Anais Nin