Around the World... One Journey at a Time. Around the World... One Journey at a Time.






Ecuador

by Kathy 1. June 2011 21:28

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Quito: Proyecto DCR, and Guayasamín


We generally pack light when we travel—two small suitcases for four people. On our trip to Ecuador, however, we packed extra-heavy, with four large duffle bags, stuffed to the maximum with clothes, notebooks, pencils, crayons, markers, scissors, tape, books and other supplies for a Quito school that served street kids—Proyecto DCR.

Many of the items had been donated by students at Genevieve and Sebastian’s after-school program in California, where Genevieve had organized a fund-raiser and donation project about a month before our trip. Ben and I had been astounded at the generosity of the students and their families. This morning, we were eager to deliver our bursting-at-the-seams bags.

Proyecto DCR is a non-profit organization that was started a few years ago by Diego Recalde (from Ecuador) and Karin Ernehed (from Sweden). The letters “DCR” stand for: 

“Dignity”—Receiving a good education will allow the children to make better choices as they get older; they will be able to live with dignity, instead of begging on the street.
“Consciousness”—By raising awareness of social injustices, the project hopes to inspire people to take action that will bring about change.
“Respect”—The school’s work reflects its utmost respect for the surrounding community and the environment.

Many of the students at Proyecto DCR come from unstable or difficult home environments. In addition to providing an education, the school tries to help the kids with social problems that may exist within the families. The work is often emotionally demanding for the teachers and directors. But day by day, progress is made.

The school is located in northern Quito, about an hour from where we were staying. Because our bags were bulky and weighed almost 200 pounds total, we couldn’t just hop on a crowded city bus (or even lug the bags to the nearest bus stop). Instead, we used the driving services of Diego’s mother, Pilar. She was vivacious, savvy, and engaging, and our time with her was a pure pleasure.

Sebastian, Pilar, and Genevieve:

The classrooms at Proyecto DCR were in the rear of a church. We were met by teachers Andres and Consuelo, as well as a Swedish volunteer named Caroline.

Consuelo, Caroline, Genevieve, me, and Andres:

Andres was trained as a lawyer, and has been working at Proyecto DCR for the past two years. Consuelo has been the main teacher since the school’s inception, providing the children with good instruction as well as a sense of stability. Caroline is here for three months, and she teaches the children English, among other things.

To minimize any disruption to the children’s lessons, we arrived during their morning recess period. Some of the children practiced a few words of English in greeting us. We toured the classroom area and then saw the school’s small garden, planted with tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables.

In front of the school:



We unloaded our supplies in a back room, away from the children. Then Genevieve and Sebastian presented some cloth “peace and friendship” flags that had been created at their afterschool program. The flags were decorated with colorful birds, flowers, world globes, and figures, and many had the words “paz” (peace) and “amigos” (friends) on them.

Here are Genevieve and Sebastian with the kids from Proyecto DCR, holding the flags:

Sebastian, who had recently learned to skateboard, had his eye on a board that some boys were sharing:


He asked them if he could take a ride, and they gave him a quick turn.

All too soon, the children’s recess was over, and it was time for us to leave.

Instead of going back to our apartment, we asked Pilar to drop us off at a museum that showcased the work of Oswaldo Guayasamín, one of the most famous Ecuadorian artists of all time.

Guayasamín lived from 1909 to 1999, and his most celebrated works contain powerful imagery that speaks against poverty, racism and political oppression.

The official name of the museum was “Fundación Guayasamín.”

The museum had three galleries, two of which held collections of pre-Columbian and colonial art. We bypassed those and focused solely on the third gallery, which presented many of Guayasamín’s own creations.

It was fascinating to see how his painting had evolved from the early years up to the characteristic style for which he became most well-known.

We each picked out our favorite paintings. Interestingly enough, Genevieve, Sebastian and Ben all gravitated toward some of his earlier paintings (from the 1940’s), in which he had not yet developed his easily identifiable style.

Sebastian chose “Las Beatas” as his favorite:

(Cameras were not allowed in the museum, but I found the image above on the Internet.)

Genevieve’s top choice was a painting called “La Choza” (the Hut), which had bumpy green hills and a small hut in the front. Alas, I couldn’t find a photo of this painting online. However, I did find one of Genevieve’s other favorites, which also had green hills—“Quito Verde” (Green Quito):

Ben was drawn to the figurative works that had similarities with the paintings of Diego Rivera, a Mexican muralist. His favorite was “El Paro” (the Unemployed):

As for me, I was intrigued with the 1960’s series called “Las Manos” (the Hands), in which Guayasamín’s signature style was in full force. I especially liked the shapes and emotion found within “Las Manos del Grito” (the Hands of Anger):

(Note: The above image was taken from a scanned postcard.)

At the museum, we met one of the directors, Amparito Guayasamín, who answered all of our questions (in Spanish) and graciously provided information and context behind many of the artist’s works, including those in response to the atrocities and violence committed by political leaders. We appreciated both her warmth and wealth of knowledge.

To see more of Guayasamín’s work, we walked up the hill to reach “La Capilla del Hombre” (The Chapel of Man), a building that the artist designed and dedicated to peace and the defense of human rights.

Before reaching the Chapel, we passed buildings that reflected a blend of new and old, poor and wealthy.






We weren’t sure if we were on the right path. We stopped and asked a small group of people, who pointed up the hill and nodded, yes, just keep going.

Finally, a large wall and a sign announced that we had arrived.

This bird greeted us at the front gate:

The austerity of the Chapel's windowless stone exterior was softened by a rounded cupola on top.

The design elements were intended to reflect those found in traditional temples of the indigenous people within Latin America—the Aztec, Quechua, Maya and Inca.

Here is a close-up of the sculpture in front:

The front door opened into a large airy space, with a circular opening in the floor under the central cupola.

Within the domed interior of the cupola was an unfinished mural that Guayasamín designed in homage to the hundreds of thousands of miners who have died extracting silver under slave-like conditions within the mines of Potosí, Bolivia.

The mural is called “Potosí, en Busca de la Luz y la Libertad” (Potosí, in Search of Light and Freedom). Guayasamín did not finish the mural, as he died three years before the Chapel was completed.

Looking down to the lower level, we saw a flame burning in a large red circle—an eternal flame that burns in memory of all who have died defending human rights.

Another view of the flame from the lower level:

In the background were the words (translated into English): “I cried because I had no shoes until I saw a child who had no feet.”

Guayasamín built this Chapel in part because he wanted to show the cruelty and suffering inflicted by men on each other. He had a gift for conveying misery and anguish in the faces and figures he painted. One series of expressive faces was called “Rostros de América” (Faces of America).



“El Mestizaje”:

“Nina Llorando II” (Crying Girl II):

“La Familia” (the Family):

These smaller faces were captured in watercolor:

One of my favorites was “Lágrimas de Sangre” (Tears of Blood), which Guayasamin painted after the death of three very close friends:

(No flash was allowed, and unfortunately I ended up with blurry photos of some of the paintings I liked best.)

Another favorite was “La Ternura” (the Tenderness), in which a mother is embracing her malnourished child:

Some longer panels spoke out against the political violence that impacts masses of people, whose voices remain unheard.

“Arrasamiento” (Devastation) conveyed the brutality of war and the futile efforts of people to protect themselves from bomb raids:

“Rios de Sangre” (Rivers of Blood) showed crimson waterways flowing around tormented skeletal figures:

“Homenaje a Nicaragua” (Homage to Nicaragua) depicted the immense suffering of the Nicaraguan people in their efforts to create a democracy:

In addition to paintings, the Chapel contained several sculptures by Guaysamín, including one called “Silla Mantena” (Chair of the Mantena):

The Mantena people belonged to one of the oldest civilizations in Ecuador, living along the Pacific Coast. The imagery carved into the chair sculpture included a double-headed serpent (only the body is visible in the above photo), an Andean condor, and a corn goddess.

Another sculpture, called “La Familia”, sat in a small reflecting pool on the bottom floor:

One interesting note is that the space for the Chapel lies right next to the expansive, hillside home where Guayasamín lived:

In a corner of the lawn, stands a tree that Guayasamín planted. It is called “El Árbol de la Vida” (the Tree of Life), and his ashes are buried at the base in a clay pot:

When he lived here, he could look out over the sprawling city of Quito:

(And now his view would include the Chapel.)

From the side of the Chapel, we watched the dark clouds stack up against the distant mountains, with occasional streaks of brilliant lightening (which were too fast for our shutter fingers).

We could even see the winged Madonna statue in the historic district, on top of the hill known as Panecillo (“little loaf of bread”):

Quito’s airport lies in the densely populated valley, and we watched plane after plane descend from the sky:



Sebastian, on the side of the Chapel:

Guayasamín’s dream for the Chapel included a new museum on the other side of the stone courtyard, which was now lined with panels containing images and some of his more famous quotations:




Without a doubt, Guayasamín’s work was magnificent, with powerful imagery and symbolism. Each one of us had connected to his work and gained respect for his art and his ideas.

As a balance for our day, we headed down to Parque La Caroline—reportedly a large park with playgrounds and activities for kids and families. The park was indeed large, with grassy lawns and basketball courts and soccer areas.


The recent rains, however, had turned most of the lawns into a swampy area.

“Mom! Mom! What’s that?!” The children took off running toward a huge painted airplane that looked as if it had been transformed into a dream play structure.

Their squeals of elation abruptly ended, however, when they discovered that the plane was surrounded by a tall chain link fence—no entry allowed.

The plane and surrounding area had a neglected air, but we still enjoyed looking at the painting and appreciating the concept:

It was hard to tell when the last child had swooshed down the slide near the plane’s nose, as the same neglected air was echoed in the scattering of dated playground equipment that was still accessible.

Genevieve and Sebastian created an obstacle course using the equipment, but they had to be careful not to fall into the moats of water next to many of the pieces.


The park was in the flight path of the airport, and there were many planes that roared over our heads.

Finding a taxi to take us back to the historic district (about 10 minutes away) was not an easy task. There were a number of taxis that drove by us as we stood on the side of the road waving, but many already had passengers. When the first taxi finally stopped, the driver said that he didn’t go to the historic district. The second wanted a large amount of money, so we declined.

We eventually started walking toward our destination, looking over our shoulders, remaining optimistic. We were in a busy area—surely there would be a free taxi soon!

Down the street was a group of demonstrators, holding bright green signs with “Sí” (yes) on them to show their support for Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa’s proposed political reforms that the public would be voting on in upcoming elections.

(The President’s reforms would give himself greater power and authority in governing, and were very controversial. Many people that we met in Ecuador were against these reforms, and they also were opposed to the President’s tactics during the election campaign—such as giving sheep to families that lived in rural areas to gain voter support.)

Finally, a taxi stopped and agreed to take us to our apartment. The driver was jovial and chatted loudly with us (in Spanish) during the entire trip.

Back on our street:


Here are some photos taken while wandering through the streets of the historic district.

The tiled domes of the 16th century Cathedral of Quito:

Animals decorated the façade of this old building:

An apartment building with a corner dome and beautiful balconies:

One set of wooden doors had faces attached to the handles:

A pedestrian street near Plaza Grande:

Strolling back through the Plaza after dinner, we noticed a “Quito” sign declaring the city to be the “American capital of culture” in 2011.

(There was also a figure in white underneath—a a bride, getting photographed!)

We had certainly enjoyed the culture in Quito today--the art of Guayasamín was incredible. And we had been impressed with the hard work and accomplishments of the Proyecto DCR school. Whether Quito was truly the “American capital of culture”, however, was still open for debate. We would look forward to doing some personal research and investigation to reach our own conclusion over our remaining two days here.

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Map of Our Journeys

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Our travel map



Places We’ve Been, w/Quick Links

Bhutan
   Bumthang Valley
   Gom Kora
   Kanglung
   Mongar
   Paro Valley
   Punakha Dzong
   Sangdrup Jongkhar
   Thimphu
   Tongsa
   Wangdi Phrodrang

Bolivia
   Caranavi
   Guanay
   Janko Marca
   La Paz
   Laguna Colorada
   Laguna Verde
   Llica
   Potosí
   Queteña
   Rurrenabaque
   Sajama
   Salar de Coipasa
   Salar de Uyuni
   San Pablo
   Santa Rosa
   Sorata
   Sud Lipez
   Tupiza
   World’s Most Dangerous Road

Canada
   Banff National Park
   Battle Hill Nat'l Hist. Site
   Boya Lake Prov. Park, BC
   Burns Lake Bike Park
   Canyon Sainte-Anne
   Chetwynd
   Dawson Creek
   Eastern Townships
   Fort Nelson
   Isle-aux-Coudres
   Jasper National Park
   Kluane Lake, YK
   'Ksan Historical Village
   Lake Louise
   Liard Hot Springs
   Montreal
   Niagara Falls
   Ottawa
   Quebec City
   Quesnel
   Thousand Islands
   Toronto
   Vancouver
   Vancouver Island
   Victoria
   Watson Lake
   Whistler
   Whitehorse

China
   Beijing
   Datong
   Forbidden City
   Great Wall at Mutianyu
   Hong Kong
   HuaShan
   Lijiang
   Summer Palace
   Terracotta Warriors
   Tiananmen Square
   Xi’an
   Yangshuo
   Yungang Caves

Costa Rica
   Arenal Volcano
   Finca Corsicana
   Hanging Bridges
   Manuel Antonio
   Poas Volcano
   Proyecto Asis
   Quepos
   Sarchi
   Sky Trek Zip Lining
   Venado Caves
   Zarcero

France
   Paris

Ecuador
   Amazon Rainforest
   Chaquiñan Bicycle Trail
   La Mitad del Mundo
   Napo Wildlife Center
   Papallacta Hot Springs
   Proyecto DCR
   Quito
   Yasuní National Park

India
   Bagdogra
   Darjeeling
   Delhi
   Gawahati
   Jaigaon
   Kalimpong

Mexico
   Baja California
   Crucecita
   Frida Kahlo Museum
   Hierve el Agua
   Huatulco
   Marietas Islands
   Mazunte
   Mexico City
   Monte Alban
   Oaxaca City
   Patzcuaro
   Puerto Angel
   Puerto Escondido
   Puerto Vallarta
   San Agustin
   San Martin Tilcajete
   Santa Fe de la Laguna
   Santa María el Tule
   Sayulita
   Studio of Jacobo Angeles
   Teotihuacán
   Teotitlán del Valle
   TzinTzunTzan
   Yagul
   Yelapa

Namibia
   Caprivi
   Dead Vlei
   Elondo Village
   Etosha Nat'l Park
   Hippo Pools Camp
   Hoba Meteorite
   Katutura
   Khowarib Camp
   Moose McGregor's Bakery
   Mowani Camp
   Ngepi Camp
   Nkasa Lupala
   n'Kwzi Camp
   River Dance Lodge
   Seisfontein
   Seisriem Camp
   Sossusvlie
   Swakopmund
   Treesleeper Camp
   Twyfeltein
   Windhoek

Peru
   Balsas
   Barranca
   Cajabamba
   Cajamarca
   Caraz
   Cañón del Pato
   Celendín
   Cerro de Pasco
   Chachapoyas
   Cusco
   Huamachuco
   Huánico
   Huaraz
   La Oroya
   Leymebamba
   Llanganuco
   Lima
   Machu Picchu
   Moyobamba
   Nuevo Jaén
   Pallasca
   Pampas
   Tápuc
   Tarapoto
   Tarma
   Tingo Maria
   Tocache
   Yungay Memorial

Portugal
   Burgau
   Coimbra
   Evora
   Lisbon
   Marvao
   Nazare
   Obidos
   Portimao
   Sintra
   Sitio

South Africa
   Johannesburg

Spain
   Barcelona
   Bilbao
   Hondarribia
   Madrid
   Montserrat
   Nerja
   Rock of Gibraltar
   Ronda
   Santillana del Mar
   Tolosa
   Zaragoza

United States National Parks
   Arches National Park, UT
   Badlands National Park, SD
   Bandelier National Monument, NM
   Bryce Canyon National Park, UT
   Cahokia Mounds (UNESCO site), IL
   Carlsbad Caverns National Park, NM
   Canyon de Chelly Nat'l Monument, AZ
   Cape Hatteras National Shoreline, NC
   Capitol Reef National Park, UT
   Civil Rights Memorial, AL
   Death Valley National Park, CA
   Denali National Park, AK
   Devil’s Tower National Monument, WY
   El Morro National Monument, NM
   Ford’s Theater in Washington, D.C.
   Glacier National Park, MT
   Grand Canyon National Park, AZ
   Grand Tetons National Park, WY
   Great Basin National Park, NV
   Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, HI
   Joshua Tree National Park, CA
   Kaloko-Honokohau Nat'l Hist. Park, HI
   Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks, NM
   King's Canyon National Park, CA
   Martin Luther King Jr. Nat'l Hist. Site, GA
   Mesa Verde National Park, CO
   Montezuma's Castle Nat'l Monument, AZ
   Monticello, VA
   Mount Rushmore National Memorial, SD
   Mt. Rainier National Park, WA
   Olympic National Park, WA
   Petrified Wood National Park, AZ
   Pinnacles National Monument, CA
   Pu'uhonua o Honaunau Nat'l Hist Pk, HI
   Pu'ukohola Heiau Nat'l Historic Site, HI
   San Antonio Missions Nat'l Hist. Park, TX
   Tuzigoot National Monument, AZ
   Walnut Canyon National Monument, AZ
   Washington Monument
   White Sands National Monument, NM
   Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, AK
   Wright Brothers National Memorial in NC
   Yellowstone National Park, WY
   Yosemite National Park, CA

United States, Cities and Places
   The Alamo, TX
   Alaska Wildlife Conservation Cntr.
   Alpine Loop in CO
   Anchorage, AK
   Antares Junction, AZ
   Arctic Circle, AK
   Barrel Oak Winery in VA
   Biloxi, MS
   Bottle Tree Farm in CA
   Calico Ghost Town, CA
   Canfield Mountain Trail System, ID
   Cape St. Vincent, NY
   Carson City, NV
   Carter Caves State Park in KY
   Chappie-Shasta OHV Area, CA
   Child's Glacier, AK
   Circle B Chuckwagon Show in SD
   City Museum in MO
   Cody, WY
   Corn Palace in SD
   Crazy Horse Memorial in SD
   Custer State Park, SD
   Dalton Highway, AK
   Dinosaur Tracks in AZ
   Discovery Place in Charlotte, NC
   Dry Falls (Sun Lakes-Dry Falls), WA
   Fairbanks, AK
   Front Royal, VA
   Gallup, NM
   Goffs, CA
   Grand Canyon Caves, AZ
   Grand Canyon Skywalk, AZ
   Grave Digger Monster Truck in NC
   Great Salt Lake, UT
   Hackberry General Store in AZ
   Hannibal, MO
   Hatteras Island, NC
   Hawaii (Big Island)
   Hickison Petroglyphs, NV
   Holbrook, AZ
   Hole in the Rock, UT
   Homer, AK
   Honey Island Swamp Tour in LA
   Hoover Dam, NV
   Hyder, AK
   Jim Gray’s Petrified Wood Co. in AZ
   John’s Peak OHV Area, OR
   Kailua-Kona, HI
   Keepers of the Wild Nature Park in AZ
   Kennecott, AK
   Kennecott Copper Mine in UT
   Kingman, AZ
   Lake Havasu, AZ
   Lake Tahoe, NV
   Las Vegas, NV (winter 2010)
   Little Brown Church in IA
   London Bridge in AZ
   Loneliest Road in America, Hwy. 50, NV
   Los Angeles, CA
   Lost Colony Show on Roanoke Isl., NC
   Lowe’s Speedway in NC
   Mardi Gras World in LA
   Mark Twain Museum in MO
   Meteor Crater, AZ
   Million Dollar Highway, CO
   Minnesota Zoo
   Mitchell, SD
   Moab, UT
   Moab, UT (dirt biking)
   Montgomery, AL
   Montpelier, ID
   Navajo Nation, AZ
   Needles, CA
   Nevada Beach, NV
   Newberry Springs, CA
   New River Gorge, WV
   New Orleans, LA
   Niagara Falls 
   North Pole, AK
   Oatman, AZ
   Old Faithful Geyser in WY
   Omak Stampede, WA
   Painted Desert, AZ
   Park City, UT (summer)
   Plymouth, NC
   Portage Valley, AK
   Portland, OR
   Prospect OHV Trail System, OR
   Resaca, GA
   Riverside State Park, WA
   Rock City in TN
   Rosa Parks Library and Museum in AL
   Roswell, NM
   Russian River, AK
   Salt Lake City, UT
   San Antonio, TX
   San Diego, CA
   San Juan Islands, WA
   San Francisco, CA
   Santa Catalina Island, CA
   Seattle, WA
   Sedona, AZ
   Shoe Tree in CA
   Shoe Tree in NV
   Silverton, CO
   Sonora, TX
   St. Louis, MO
   St. Paul, MN
   Talkeetna, AK
   Telluride, CO
   Route 66
   Twin Knobs Recreation Area in KY
   Virginia Beach, VA
   Washington D.C.
   Wayne Fitzgerrell State Park in IL
   Williamsburg, VA
   Winom Frazier OHV Area, OR
   Winslow, AZ
   Zion National Park, UT

Planning Our Adventures

For us, each journey begins with the initial heart pangs to venture to a certain part of the world. Then the ideas start coming together . . . ahh, the possibilities . . . and the dream evolves gradually into an actual plan. But, oh, the joy of the dream!  Click here to learn more about how we plan and prepare for our journeys.

Where Are We Now?

Click here to discover where we are now, as well as our uncoming travel plans.


Words for the Heart

“. . . and then the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom.”

Anais Nin